Oil Changes (Newbie Question)
rrhf
Member
I just got my first car, although second hand siya (can't afford a brand new one).
People tell me that I need an oil change every 4,000 kms travelled. Some say 5,000. Some say that for synthetic oil, once a year lang daw.
Can someone please give me like a rule of thumb on oil changes? Like for example, If I use bottom-of-the-line oils like say Caltex Supreme, how often do I need to have it changed? Or if I use Shell Helix Super? Ultra?
What oil do you recommend? Kasi kung mahal pero once-a-year lang magpapalit, eh di pwede na.
BTW, if it will help, my car is a 7-year old 1600cc, M/T.
Maraming Salamat
People tell me that I need an oil change every 4,000 kms travelled. Some say 5,000. Some say that for synthetic oil, once a year lang daw.
Can someone please give me like a rule of thumb on oil changes? Like for example, If I use bottom-of-the-line oils like say Caltex Supreme, how often do I need to have it changed? Or if I use Shell Helix Super? Ultra?
What oil do you recommend? Kasi kung mahal pero once-a-year lang magpapalit, eh di pwede na.
BTW, if it will help, my car is a 7-year old 1600cc, M/T.
Maraming Salamat
0
Comments
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This is a common practice that i suggest to most peeps. this is based on what i read in most car manuals and the factory PMS (periodic maintainance schedule):
- Change your oil every 5,000km.
- Get a tune-up every 10,000 along with cleaning the air filter.
- Change the fuel filter and spark plugs every 20,000km
- drain/change other fluids like the gear oil, coolant, and brake fluid every 40,000km.
On the oil, try to use the ones with an API SJ or SL rating, these are one of the more updated ratings. With the viscousity, around 20W-40 or 15w40 is better suited for our hot climate and high-mileage/older engines (these would be oils like Caltex Havoline Formula, Shell Helix, Mobil XHC, etc. Given the restricted budgets of people nowadays, its OK not to use synthetic as its still recommended that you change oil every 5,000km or so even if you use synthetics IMO.
Bottom-line oils like Caltex Supreme is OK, it SF rated if i remember it right ( this is what we use on our "pang-harabas" Corolla), just change the oil every 5,000km as well.
Here's a related thread: http://www.pinoyexchange.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1377690 -
The labor prices on fluid drains and then like will vary. From what area are you (north? south manila) This would help in suggesting some shops.
On the air filter and duel filters, try canvassing the prices of the shops in Banawe and in the CASA/dealerships. I noticed (with Nissan cars at least) that the prices of the regular items like OEM oil, air, and fuel filters were at par or cheaper in the casa.
Prices of regular mineral oils like Caltex Havoline, Shell Helix, etc are in the P130-P140 per liter range more o r less... Synthetics cost around P490-P500+ per liter (try checking out the PX stores in Cash and Carry). Semi-synthetics cost around P220-P250...0 -
Originally posted by xmark
I bought a 8 year old car, 130,000 km.
Changing of???
Timing Belt
CV Joints
Air Filter (Aircon)
one electronic window doesn't work
In Banawe
How much is this parts & labor???
Whats shops?
I already change the oil and tune ups.
What car exactly do you have? If its suspension work, you can try Wheelers Suspension Haus along N. Reyes St in Banawe. At that mileage, i would suggest you change the timing belt and replace all the fluids (gear oil, brake fluid, coolant, power steering fluid, etc) just to be sure.
On the power windows, try going to an electrical shop like Wizzard along Morato or Reys in Cubao/Marikina. 0 -
Originally posted by xmark
slamm thanks for the suggestion...
The car is Honda 93 Esi, How much kaya ang replace ng timing belt, diba parang overhaul na rin yun sa makina dahil ibababa nila yung engine???
How will you know if your suspension works properly???
Dami kong tanong no?:)
A good timing belt will cost you around a couple of grand... it's not like an overhaul because the timing belt is more of an external part of your engine... an overhaul entails a whole lot more work than changing a timing belt and no, they won't bring down the engine for the 93 ESi...
Depending on what kind of suspension is in your car, there are a number of ways to tell if you need to change your shocks and the like... rule of thumb for my ESi is to change the shocks/dampers which are stock, every 5 years... if you use your car much more than me though, could be sooner... also how you drive will determine the life of your shocks... if you drive a bit rough then definitely sooner than later. If your car begins to scrape its under chassis when you go over humps or inclines, chances are it's time to change your shocks... look to about 15k-20k to change all 4 depending on what particular shocks you get.
As for the CV Joints and what not, it's best to have a mechanic look... sorry but I can't remember how much I spent for my CV joints... I just remember that it was definitely expensive. :(
If your CV Joints are shot though, have things like your tie rod assembly, bushings, etc. checked as well. 0 -
Mokkori Thanks for your advice...
How about air conditioning? Pina cleaning ko na pero hindi pa rin sya masyadong malaming kapag maiinit yung weather natin here in the Phil. What part you do think I will replace?
Sorry for my questions, I really want some info so that I will know how to do with the cars and stuff...0 -
On the A/C, it could be that something like the dryer, expansion valve, or evaporator might need replacement soon... Have the A/C shop check them out.
On the suspension, there are a lot of possible causes or parts that can need replacement. Check the bushings, shocks, shock mounts, ball joints, tie-rods, rack ends, etc... Listen to the noise the car makes when you go over bumps, humps, when you steer, etc... Take note also of the vibrations that you might feel on the steering wheel. With these in mind, explain it to the mechanic and try to go on a test drive for him to see personally.
On suspension parts, i'd only recommend either OEM or replacement part brands like 555 and maybe Paraut. On shocks, KYB's (gas of liquid) will do fine.0 -
From the Honda manual:
Normal Driving Conditions: Change oil every 5,000 miles
Harsh Driving Conditions: every 3,000 miles
The definition regarding driving conditions isn't quite clear-cut since location vary per car owner.
My guess is, during late spring up to early autumn and you don't commute great distances plus rare stop-and-go traffic, this would be considered normal. Winter months are definitely harsh driving conditions.
In CALIFORNIA, it's always harsh driving conditions.0 -
Originally posted by xmark
Mokkori Thanks for your advice...
How about air conditioning? Pina cleaning ko na pero hindi pa rin sya masyadong malaming kapag maiinit yung weather natin here in the Phil. What part you do think I will replace?
Sorry for my questions, I really want some info so that I will know how to do with the cars and stuff...
No problem... as for the AC, it really won't work as well if the weather is extremely hot, but it should still be cool to a certain degree... it could be a number of things, the easiest of which to fix is the lack of freon... I'd take it to an AC repair shop... they could better diagnose it for you.
No need to apologize... your questions are all more than welcome here.
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Kapag Change-oil, semi-synthetic lang ako around P1000/4 liters yung Shell helix, mura lang yung oil filter P150.00 lang. Labor around P150.00.
Ang magandang sparkplugs ay yung SPLITFIRE ang tatak kasi yun ang ginagamit sa mga Ferrari, good for three years na yun, kesa bibili ka ng ordinaryong sparkplugs like Bosch. SPLITFIRE nga ang kinabit ko nung huli, it cost me around P3000 pesos para sa anim na sparkplug. Yeah, anim ang sparkplug ng sasakyan ko kasi Mitsubishi GALANT VR V6 2.0 Liter.0 -
On your next oil change, put our new CYBERLUBE @ Php 545/ bottle of 250ml. See for specs: http://www.cyberlink.net.ph/cyberlube_call.htm
Guaranteed effective (next oil change after 20,000km)
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Originally posted by phalluscolossus
Ang magandang sparkplugs ay yung SPLITFIRE ang tatak kasi yun ang ginagamit sa mga Ferrari, good for three years na yun, kesa bibili ka ng ordinaryong sparkplugs like Bosch. SPLITFIRE nga ang kinabit ko nung huli, it cost me around P3000 pesos para sa anim na sparkplug. Yeah, anim ang sparkplug ng sasakyan ko kasi Mitsubishi GALANT VR V6 2.0 Liter.
I kinda have my reservations on "aftermarket performance plugs" like Splitfire, Torquemaster, etc... What i've heard is that they have yet to prove a dyno tested increase in HP on stock to lightly modded cars. Some cars also experienced detonation or misfire, erratic idling, etc. unless they retard the timing beyond the normal specs. Heavily modded cars wouldnt use this as well as they are especially more sensitive to any probelms with the ignition system (detonation is what usually kills the medium to heavily modded engines).
Some people will say that they "feel" the difference but if you would try tuning up your car after sometime (change plugs, adjust timing, etc) and use stock, plugs, you'll also feel the same increase in performance.
IMHO, the best would be to still use the manufacturers recommended plugs (usually Denso or NGK for Japanese brands) and gap them to proper specs (most mechanics dont do this anymore). If you want added value, get the platinum or iridium versions of the stockers for longer spark plug life.
If you want a slight increase in performance or engine response, use the stock plugs and wires then you advance your ignition timing by around 2-3 degrees from the stock setting. This is adviseable only if you use higher octane fuels like Petron Blaze and Shell Velocity to help protect your engine from detonation. Be wary for any signs of detonation/"tope" if you do so. If you hear the "tope" (like pebbles in a tin can) sound while you accelerate, you may have to retard the timing a bit (climate is also a factor here IMO).
My two cents... 0 -
Originally posted by slamm
I kinda have my reservations on "aftermarket performance plugs" like Splitfire, Torquemaster, etc... What i've heard is that they have yet to prove a dyno tested increase in HP on stock to lightly modded cars. Some cars also experienced detonation or misfire, erratic idling, etc. unless they retard the timing beyond the normal specs. Heavily modded cars wouldnt use this as well as they are especially more sensitive to any probelms with the ignition system (detonation is what usually kills the medium to heavily modded engines).
Some people will say that they "feel" the difference but if you would try tuning up your car after sometime (change plugs, adjust timing, etc) and use stock, plugs, you'll also feel the same increase in performance.
IMHO, the best would be to still use the manufacturers recommended plugs (usually Denso or NGK for Japanese brands) and gap them to proper specs (most mechanics dont do this anymore). If you want added value, get the platinum or iridium versions of the stockers for longer spark plug life.
If you want a slight increase in performance or engine response, use the stock plugs and wires then you advance your ignition timing by around 2-3 degrees from the stock setting. This is adviseable only if you use higher octane fuels like Petron Blaze and Shell Velocity to help protect your engine from detonation. Be wary for any signs of detonation/"tope" if you do so. If you hear the "tope" (like pebbles in a tin can) sound while you accelerate, you may have to retard the timing a bit (climate is also a factor here IMO).
My two cents...
I agree... I have my own reservations about plugs such as Splitfire... though I have to admit that I've been hearing a lot about them... I've also done the deed of advancing the timing a bit although it's a bit tricky to find the right setting and all... it does give a bit of better response. 0
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