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  1. #1

    car aircon problem!.

    ask ko lang po, napansin ko sa aircon ng car ko eh di siya lumalamig, parang naka fan lang po. ano po kaya ang prob? tiahttp://www.pinoyexchange.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif
    .

  2. #2
    it might need cleaning already ++ recharging of refrigerant.

    it should blow cold air after, provided the system has no other problems.

  3. #3
    cleaning lang yan and check ng mga tubo and hose ng aircon,minsan kasi may leak na kaya nawawala yun freon.after nun pakarga ka ng bagong freon ok na yan.

  4. #4
    Biglaan ba ang wala ng lamig? baka may nabutas sa line at nag leak ang refrigerant? kelan ka last nagpacleaning?

  5. #5
    plenty of factors why your aircon stopped being cold:

    • leaks in pipes and tubes
    • leak in condenser unit
    • leak in aircon unit itself
    • hindi na natritrip ang thermostat
    • faulty/rusted valve
    • clogged filter
    • faulty electricals


    basta.. prepare AT LEAST 6000 when you go to have your car's aircon repaired. yung cleaning and pakarga ng freon pa lang, plus labor, will cost you 3000+; baka may kailangan ka palitan na part or iparepair so better have the necessary funds para less hassle of coming back to the repair shop.

  6. #6
    ^ more if the evaporator is due na...

    general tip: don't skimp on quality work. find a good shop who specializes in aircon cleaning and repair.

    gen aire in banaue is a good place to go. ikwento mo na lang kung ano ang nangyari (biglang nawala ang lamig, dahan dahan nawala, etc.) they'll know what to do.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by aaabha View Post
    ask ko lang po, napansin ko sa aircon ng car ko eh di siya lumalamig, parang naka fan lang po. ano po kaya ang prob? tiahttp://www.pinoyexchange.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif
    .
    Ask ko lang kung ano car mo? Tnx

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  9. #8
    I agree with Mr. Revelations and Mr. 10323015. Lots of factors actually ang pwedeng dahilan. And dont skimp on quality work, medyo may kamahalan but its worth it. I remember my big body corolla when the evaporator develops a leak, ang ginawa was that they welded the part that was leaking, cost me PHP 2300, after next month ganoon pa rin, another leak develops. This time I changed the evaporator with a new one, cots more than welding it again of course and until now the aircon still function just fine. That was two years ago.

  10. #9
    Had the same problem, went to Cool Attack in Ortigas for repair. They replaced the evaporator and hose. Cost me 5,000 pesos.

  11. #10
    baka naman po naka-off lang yung aircon switch! check mo!

  12. #11
    i just want to share my experience with Castrol re: aircon repair, since I thought it was a big rip off, and trusting their name, I thought I was in the right hands.

    I had my aircon checked early this year. They told me they needed to replace myy drier and valve, they charged me 6K. After 3months, wala na ulit lamig yung aircon, so I went back (backjob) for the freon. Recently, wala ng lumalabas na hangin at all. So I asked them why almost every 2months, nasisira yung aircon.

    Here's what happened: My car stayed with them for almost 3days. They replaced my coil and charged a few more for tapes and oil etc. They initially told me I would only need to pay for whatever piyesa, and labor would be free. After three days of hassle, they charged me 9K for the coil, and the labor.

    ... and my car is barely 3 years old. Much to my disappointment, nadulas yung nagbabantay at sinabing the previous fix was done by a mekaniko and not an aircon technician (na sabi nila before aircon technician)

    Castrol tsk tsk tsk

  13. #12
    kung hindi nageengage ang compressor, check mo yung fuse ng A/C sa fuse box sa may engine, kung ok ang fuse malamang magnetic clutch yan. Ganyan nangyari sa oto ko, 5k paayos ko sa denso makati.

  14. #13
    If the compressor doesn't engage when you turn it on, there's a possibility that you are low on refrigerant. There is a pressure switch that automatically shuts down the compressor. Check for leaks.

    Rule of thumb when replacing evaporators, never use locally manufactured or serpentine type cooling coils. They're not as efficient as laminated type. Cooling efficiency is reduced by up to 30%. You'll notice this during summer and high noons. As much as possible, try to use the original brand for your car. ie; Denso, Calsonic, Sanden. On filters/driers and expansion valve, generics/replacements would do just fine.

    Now if you're on a budget, and your car is a typical Jap sedan (Civic, Corolla, Sentra, etc) You can use a japan surplus OEM cooling coil and convert (cut and weld) the hoses to fit the LHD configuration of your car. I've personally had it done on my car and it has been 2 years and no leaks or problems whatsoever. The coldness of the AC can rival a brand new car.

  15. #14
    Try JOFRELL auto parts and repair! recommended ko . Its in 4096 gen mascardo St. Brgy bangkal Makati. Very reasonable price and sobrang bait and honest ni mang jeff!

  16. #15
    when in doubt, FLAT OUT! shun_sakurai's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
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    6100 RPM
    Quote Originally Posted by Sh3rwin View Post
    kung hindi nageengage ang compressor, check mo yung fuse ng A/C sa fuse box sa may engine, kung ok ang fuse malamang magnetic clutch yan. Ganyan nangyari sa oto ko, 5k paayos ko sa denso makati.
    Here's some more detail on this...

    Because the A/C compressor's clutch is engaged and disengaged by magnetism, there has to be something that provides that magnetism. That is usually done by a solenoid, or coil of wire, which wears around the compressor's driveshaft like a collar or sleeve. The solenoid acts as an electromagnet once electricity passes through it, and this controls the engagement and disengagement of the compressor's clutch.

    If you run your car's engine and A/C and listen to the engine's sound, there is a noticeable "tick" sound that emanates when the compressor's clutch engages. It is followed by a low-pitched whoosh that is distinct from the engine's sound, which will go away after a while depending on the setting of your A/C thermostat. That's the solenoid and clutch at work. On low cooling the clutch engage/disengage cycles are quicker and shorter; on high cooling settings the clutch cycles are much longer.

    Sometimes this solenoid/coil can blow out on you, which happened to my car. Mine got so hot that when the compressor was disassembled, you could see obvious blisters and cracks on the solenoid housing. Most dealerships will tell you to replace the entire compressor (which is the most expensive fix for car A/C), but a savvy mechanic can swap out the busted solenoid and replace it with another one from a surplus unit - for much less cash outlay.

  17. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by shun_sakurai View Post
    Here's some more detail on this...

    If you run your car's engine and A/C and listen to the engine's sound, there is a noticeable "tick" sound that emanates when the compressor's clutch engages. It is followed by a low-pitched whoosh that is distinct from the engine's sound, which will go away after a while depending on the setting of your A/C thermostat. That's the solenoid and clutch at work. On low cooling the clutch engage/disengage cycles are quicker and shorter; on high cooling settings the clutch cycles are much longer.
    I'm experiencing that ticking sound. It's like turning on and off. Is that normal?

    What do you mean by low cooling and high cooling?

    Thanks,

  18. #17
    it is normal. it your aircon adjusting the temperature.

  19. #18
    ^^Yes its normal for non-climate controlled cars. On other cars, you no longer hear the ticking sound as the compressor is always engaged.

  20. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by jason_10 View Post
    ^^Yes its normal for non-climate controlled cars. On other cars, you no longer hear the ticking sound as the compressor is always engaged.
    May Auto-Climate Control yung AC system nung car. Could this be normal pa rin? Thanks

  21. #20
    ^what car is it?

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