Suits, anyone?

[raven23]

I had my first suit made a couple of years ago (don't really need one here in the Phils, plus, I usually dress down), but feel like I'll be needing a new one soon (or a couple of new ones). I really don't believe in RTW when it comes to suits (except when in a pinch, then I rent / borrow).

My questions:

1. Where's a nice tailor (in Manila, sana) to go to for well-cut, high-quality suits? Price isn't a factor but at the same time hopefully it's reasonable -- but then again, if it's really high-quality then as long as you get value for money, right?

2. What style / cut do you think is good? Two-piece or three-piece? Double-breasted or single? How many buttons? Flap pockets or piped pockets? Peak lapel or notch lapel?

3. What about fabric? I personally look for Italian or Japanese wool. I think silk is too gay :wiseguy:. As for color, I can only think of either navy-blue or dark gray. Any other suggestions?

I know, I could go out and buy a copy of GQ but then again... it's an interesting discussion topic. Plus, for the 'suit-challenged' boys out there, this should be informative.

[Dog_Lover]

A great looking suit is the result of choosing the right fabric and tailor.

The Kamuning Fabric Market (palengke) in Q.C is an excellent place to purchase
high quality imported "suiting" material for business and formal wear.Their prices are
very cheap and reasonable.There is such a wealth of fabric variety to choose from encompassing
classic weaves and colors to more recent and trendier ones. Most stores even carry fabric used by Armani,Hugo Boss,
Zegna and Cerruti.'Hybrid' material are also available which you have to see and touch to appreciate (like silk-wool,poly-wool)
The newest fabrics are about 2-3 mos. behind the latest ones in Europe and the Continental U.S.

As to a tailor, I'd like to recommend "Mang Peddy", who has his shop in the area also.Just inquire from the
retailers where he is. He is an excellent master cutter which I believe is the secret behind a well custom-made, tailored suit.
Just bring your sample magazine along and he can copy any style you prefer.Don't be bothered by his shop, which is very spartan.
His work just speaks for itself, and so does the list of his clientele.

Styles and cuts are of course a matter of personal taste. Just remember that a single breasted suit is
the only kind that can be worn properly even when unbuttoned.

I only have 2 suits, a light-gray one for daytime and a dark midnight blue for evening both done by Mang Peddy.

[raven23]

Originally posted by Dog_Lover
The Kamuning Fabric Market (palengke) in Q.C is an excellent place to purchase
high quality imported "suiting" material for business and formal wear. As to a tailor, I'd like to recommend "Mang Peddy", who has his shop in the area also.Thanks, Dog_Lover. I guess suits aren't very 'fashionable' these days which is why not too many people replied to this.
Styles and cuts are of course a matter of personal taste. Just remember that a single breasted suit is the only kind that can be worn properly even when unbuttoned.Right. I found that out the hard way (my first suit was double-breasted and came across as too 'classic' & formal). As to style... I was kinda hoping for more opinions as to what suit styles are 'suitable' (pun intended) for a more young, chic 'image'.

[hat_tr1ck]

Originally posted by Dog_Lover
The Kamuning Fabric Market (palengke) in Q.C is an excellent place to purchase high quality imported "suiting" material for business and formal wear.

Wow! I never heard of the place! Is this by any chance the market near the Delgado Hospital?

[hat_tr1ck]

Originally posted by raven23
As to style... I was kinda hoping for more opinions as to what suit styles are 'suitable' (pun intended) for a more young, chic 'image'.

I guess it would depend on the occassion you plan on wearing the suit for. If it'll be a suit for business affairs, the classic single-breasted suit is still the best. And you're right, a double-breasted suit just comes across as too formal. I personally prefer gray single-breasted, two-piece suits with 2 to 3 buttons with piped pockets and peak lapels.

For social affairs, go and look at the suits on display behind the windows of the Linea shops. I don't know what's the latest in suits nowadays because I hardly wear them anyway.

[aticus]

Try Naluzzi... :) It's located in two branches, one in Makati (Atrium, second floor) and one along White Plains Road (near the art gallery and Miggy's).

Absolutely excellent suits. :) I've been getting all my suits made there since 1994. Ask for the owner himself (he's based in the Makati branch) Robert Naluz. He does the suits of most of the top politicians and quite a number of big businessmen. Heck, Erap used to have his suits done there (before he got incarcerated, of course... ;) ) I know of at least two or three senators, a number of mayors, and at least two bank presidents who get their suits done with him. He also makes exceptional tuxedoes...

:)

[Dog_Lover]

yes hat_trick, that's the one. I just call it the Kamuning Fabric market which is right beside the palengke.

[cong]

ive 34 suits bro, not counting sportscoats and slacks. im in and out of meetings, thats why i wear suits almost everyday. i also mix and match, and the colors highly depends on the season. plus, i cant help but buy something i like when i see one. which includes rtws from known designers, i just get them altered to fit me well. the designer suits are what i call "power suits", "pang-diin", as what one of my boys called them.

most of my suits are 2 piece. ive about six 3 piece suits, i think. im not a big fan of vests.

i go for wool all the time. hugo boss uses not but. theres also this thing called "tropical wool".

most of my suits are single breasted. never a big fan of double breasted suits. ive two double breasted, 3 piece suits. apart from that, i think i only have two double breasted suits. only on really formal night affairs only do i wear such.

armani suits are known for their one button suits. most of my suits have 3.

i like the piped pocket look. you can always tuck the flap in the pockets to make them look piped. note that piped looks better on light single breasted suits.

aside from the very powerful looking navy blue and charcoal gray, theres also olive. tan, light brown, then there are different shades of each color, im not familiar with what their called.

find a good tailor whos a good or employs a good "mananabas" or master cutter.

[raven23]

I was waiting for cong to find this thread. Thanks, bro!

[shallow]

i've got 4 suits. 3 of them were done by Indian tailors in HK coz i heard they were some of the best and cheapest in the world. strictly 3 button, single breasted deals, 2 piece deals. the other one i splurged on coz it was for my wedding. my wife would kill me if i use it again- a shame since it's a beauty.

great info about Kamuning's suit place! thanks.

i find the Paul Smith "slim look" the best style. btw, what's the deal with the Hugo Boss, Ungaro deals where they put the tag outside the sleeve? are you supposed to cut that off?

[cong]

Originally posted by shallow
btw, what's the deal with the Hugo Boss, Ungaro deals where they put the tag outside the sleeve? are you supposed to cut that off?

the people who will alter your suit SHOULD take the tags off. its just there for show. once its off the rack, it should be taken out.

[egg]

Coming from the first woman to participate in this thread, I hope this helps --- even just a tiny bit.
_____________


The men in my family have their suits done by Rajo Laurel [...at his shop in San Miguel, Makati] or the Edwin Valerio tailors [There's a branch in BF Homes, Paranaque.].
Most of them prefer the herringbone pattern for thicker wool, which come in dark shades from black to brown.
For more informal styles, linen is always the best --- for the tropics, that is.

[Ali]

I don't wear suits, but I've designed quite a few for several theatrical productions. Mostly fin-de-siecle affairs, the ones we associate with Rizal and the other heroes of the Filipino ilustracion.

And here's my thought. Many of the funkier, edgier new suits by all these French, Italian, and English designers are inspired heavily by the fashions of the late 19th century. London's Saville Row, where the world's best tailors supposedly lair, is a bastion of the belle epoque. So here's a strange suggestion, a rather eccentric one, but one that a person of extraordinary charisma can pull off.

Wear a suit with archaic details. Wearing clothes from 10 years ago is tacky. Wearing clothes from a hundred or more is almost charming in its eccentricity.

I'm not suggesting you have costumes made, but I'm encouraging you to take a look at old, old suits. One particular favorite of mine is the 4 button suit with high, notched lapels. If you're brave enough, you can even try a 5 button suit.

Have them in strange, light, but laid back colors in lustrous linen or tropical wool. Pearl grey. Ochre. Sage. Stucco. Wear them with modern shirts. With plain, matching ties.

[cong]

Originally posted by Ali
I'm not suggesting you have costumes made, but I'm encouraging you to take a look at old, old suits. One particular favorite of mine is the 4 button suit with high, notched lapels. If you're brave enough, you can even try a 5 button suit.

i can do 4 buttons. ive a couple like that for like, parties that dont require a tie. dont know if i can carry a 5 button well. im not tall enough for that.


Have them in strange, light, but laid back colors in lustrous linen or tropical wool. Pearl grey. Ochre. Sage. Stucco. Wear them with modern shirts. With plain, matching ties.

raven, listen to this guy. galing!

pero syempre, it highly depends where and what function youre attending. if its for formal social events and business purposes, stay conservative.

pero for not so formal events, ah what the hell, just listen to this guy and that one egg girl who contributed to this thread too.

[raven23]

Originally posted by cong
raven, listen to this guy. galing!Yeah, man. If that Ali is the Ali I know... magaling din siya magluto.

[Ali]

Grabe, people recognize me too often in the boards...

Well, no surprise. I do use my real name, state my real job, and use my real picture as an avatar!

And I still can't figure out who raven23 is... Hmmm...

Thanks for the compliments. :)

And I guess I should have included the warning. The suits I discussed are definitely too strange for formal and business events. Unless they're in black or navy I guess.

[shallow]

my dad told me that if i'm gonna wear a good suit i might as well have my shirts custom made too. that way, i can wear cuff links too.

[ingenuesjon]

question:
may nagpaparent ba ng suit? where and how much would it be?

[cong]

Originally posted by ingenuesjon
question:
may nagpaparent ba ng suit? where and how much would it be?

if i can just say something, dude. if at all possible, stay away from rented or borrowed suits. see, guys are built differently and suits are designed/altered accordingly. what looks good on raven wont necessarily look good on me. the same suit that looks good on you if you weigh 160lbs wont necessarily look good on you if you gain 5lbs.