Raw Denim 101

[carbon888]

dont buy levi's please... i can get you guys some cool denime 66 type cut in brand new condition for 7,500 let me know shipped

[brianpex]

That's a pretty good deal. I've heard good things about Denime, but am not really familiar with the cuts.

EDIT: Did some reading, the 66 is a slim cut. Sounds promising.

[carbon888]

oh sorry 1480hk dollars for the union start by sugarcane
1480 hk dollars for denime 66 type size 33 below( non xx) 1680hk for okinawa sugarcanes eternal 811 1780 hk

shipping is around 150 hk plus paypal or money order bank transfer fees

uniionstar



http://www.take5jeans.com/ftp/ForWebPhotos/SugarCane/StarJeans/starjeans_ph01.jpg



denime 66 type
http://www.take5jeans.com/ftp/For%20Taobao/DENIME/66%20TYPE/pic%20(1).jpg

eternal 811
http://www.take5jeans.com/ftp/ForWebPhotos/ETERANL/811/811back.jpg

sugarcane okinawa

http://www.take5jeans.com/ftp/For%20Taobao/SUGAR%20CANE/SC40401/pic%20(2).jpg

[brianpex]

Ed can you get copies of Free & Easy, Lightning and other Jap-trying-to-be-American magazines? I'd rather get a few issues of these than new jeans at the moment...

[iannedr]

denime 66 type
http://www.take5jeans.com/ftp/For%20Taobao/DENIME/66%20TYPE/pic%20(1).jpg


(salivating!!!)

Ed how much in total in Phil peso? I'm a real 33 waist, should i get 32 or 31?

[Sadik]

haay gusto nung eternal 811 hehe

question.. pareho lang ba to?

Sugar Cane Uni-Sex Union Star Jean in Raw
http://www.denimbaronline.com/assets/items/large/ED12FA73D3.jpg
http://www.denimbaronline.com/store/item.asp?ITEM_ID=455&DEPARTMENT_ID=38#

tsaka

Self Edge x Sugar Cane = SEXSC02
http://www.selfedge.com/shop/images/scxse/sexsc02_06.jpg?
http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=239

pasensya na naguguluhan lang, sabi kasi collab yung isa sa SelfEdge tapos meron din sa Denibar

thx

[supercrapper]

nope its difft .. the union star is more general in relase while the sexsc is an selfedge exclusive

[Sadik]

^
hmm pareho kasi sila na may star na maliit eh

[supercrapper]

dift materials used, dift denim and pocketbags and from what selfedge is saying theirs is slimmer....

[brianpex]

Based on the measurements posted on SelfEdge, the SEXSC has a lower rise.

[carbon888]

(salivating!!!)

Ed how much in total in Phil peso? I'm a real 33 waist, should i get 32 or 31?


err try to convert it man...i suggest getting a 33 on denimes theyre different from samurai's dont size down on denime's trhey dont stretch out a lot they just keep shrinking after every wash true vintage style denim

[carbon888]

very different i suggest if you want slim style jeans get april77 or cheap mondays even dior 19cm's

when you want japanese's then go with streight leg regular cut repro's

[camisaroja]

yo eddie why are the SC Union star cheaper than the SC 1947's?


The 1947s should be the entry level piece correct?

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/vari/sc41947421/

The 1947s are JPY13440 (jap retail) while the Union Stars are JPY 15540 (jap retail).

At take5 the 1947 are more expensive than union stars?

[carbon888]

nope 1480 for union star 1480 for 1947 same price at take 5 or give or take a 100 hk dollars off anyways when you purchase ill let you know exact amount

[Sadik]

very different i suggest if you want slim style jeans get april77 or cheap mondays even dior 19cm's

when you want japanese's then go with streight leg regular cut repro's

why? panget ba tong Self Edge x Sugar Cane = SEXSC02 ?

[brianpex]

No I'm sure it's very good quality denim and very unique -- Sugar Cane actually uses sugar cane fibers mixed in the cotton. Japanese jeans are mostly reproductions of the classic straight cuts like Levi's 501, which are different from modern slim fitting cuts. So if you're looking for a modern slim or tapered jean you should check out a different brand.

I'll try to post pics later of how different jeans fit so you can pick which ones you prefer...

[camisaroja]

cheers eddie!
-------------------------------------------------

Guys I have here a Uniqlo raw indigo premium selvedge denim size 31 (skinny fit straight) it's a bit tight on me but they still fit me because I was able to close all buttons. Im a 32-33 but, they'll eventually strech out. new with tags. Would be perfect for a 31 or 32.

PHP3500 shipped anywhere in the PHL

here are some pics:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/alister214/IMG_3025.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/alister214/IMG_3026.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/alister214/IMG_3027.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/alister214/IMG_3028.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/alister214/IMG_3030.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/alister214/IMG_3031.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k33/alister214/IMG_3032.jpg

[camisaroja]

why? panget ba tong Self Edge x Sugar Cane = SEXSC02 ?

maganda sya pero parang ang mahal.

[carbon888]

thats what you gotta pay fro premium

[supercrapper]

way to go red for being all entrepreneurial and ish

[camisaroja]

way to go red for being all entrepreneurial and ish

thanks?

But seriously, if they don't get sold in 5 days id squeeze my self into them.

[supercrapper]

stop eating for the next 5 fays... you wont need to

[camisaroja]

but me wills die.




And besides Im not Bear Grylls for cryin out loud.

[supercrapper]

waaaaaah waaaaaah waaaaaah be a man and slice off some of yr flesh ... im starting to doubt your commitment to denimz

[camisaroja]

should I use a bolo or a cleaver?

[supercrapper]

scalpel ftw

[Mike Cortez]

try nailcutter

[Mike Cortez]

are GUESS jeans okay?

[brianpex]

are GUESS jeans okay?

They're pre-distressed crap.

I checked out a Diesel store this weekend to look at their jeans. They actually have some nice cuts and some more inventive designs but the denim is not up to Jap denim standards obviously. Not a lot of wacky washes, compared to years past, which is good. If they ever go on 50% sale I might be tempted to grab a pair.

[Sadik]

^
hmm kasama ba sa sale ng Diesel yung jeans nila?

[brianpex]

^ There were a few items on sale at Diesel Shangri-la, which I didn't notice until I was leaving. The majority of the nice stuff was regular price.

Did you go to defacto?

[Sadik]

^
yup, Tats (the owner) is so accomodating, they dont have selvedge tho..

btw
nakita ko to sa Diesel
http://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Thaye-88Z-Jeans/dp/B001AZLIE6

nice yung tela kaya lang mahal eh magdagdag lang ako ng konti may Samurai nako :D

parang eto sya sa Samurai
http://samurai-j.com/contents/jeans/s3000bk/index.htm
i think.. hehe might get this one

[brianpex]

^ That Diesel Thaye looks OK. I like the dark stitching.

Definitely go for the Samurais if that's an option for you. We need more people wearing good jeans in this country.

[Sadik]

^
yup, isip parin kung ano kukunin ko, kung yung Samurai S3000bk o yung SEXSC02 haay

[Mike Cortez]

the stitching on the back pocket of the samurai is tight

[Sadik]

^
oww i think its painted, hmm hinde ba madaling matanggal yun?

[iannedr]

Samurais are my dream...

[adelphi]

Are Sams/PRPS/FH etc. not available at all here in the phil?

any rules to wearing jeans in terms of fit? i'm 6'1 170lbs if that helps.

[mike168]

were about the same size, imo i prefer straight/slim cut

[iannedr]

Are Sams/PRPS/FH etc. not available at all here in the phil?

any rules to wearing jeans in terms of fit? i'm 6'1 170lbs if that helps.

yup not available. Closest is HK

No rules, wear them according to your style but dont look STUPID. To each his own :)

[brianpex]

Are Sams/PRPS/FH etc. not available at all here in the phil?


Well, Ed has a huge stash of jap jeans. He could set up shop...

[Mike Cortez]

i heard there are samurai's in atc and gateway (jeans inc). but im not 100% sure.

[carbon888]

whats jeans inc? i doubt!

[carbon888]

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/_MG_0656.jpghttp://



http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/_MG_0658.jpg



http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/_MG_0660.jpg



http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/_MG_0661.jpg



http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/_MG_0664.jpg

[brianpex]

For the first time today, I saw someone actually wearing True Religions. It was a guy at the ATM near our office. It looked terrible.

[camisaroja]

you should have snapped pics.

[brianpex]

I would have, but his companion was watching me.

[banoi]

^It means we are catching up! Style checking is now in Manila haha.

[brianpex]

Quite possibly he was wondering what I was dressed up as.

I was wearing a Ben Sherman check shirt tucked into my APCs with Doc Martens. Skinhead without the skinhead (I need a haircut).

[carbon888]

ehh i have 2 pairs of TR's cost around 15k each..

from 4 years ago anyone wants it? 8k each

[camisaroja]

I would have, but his companion was watching me.

please tell me he wasn't wearing a pink shirt.

[carbon888]

not a pink shirt but a pink heart

[brianpex]

please tell me he wasn't wearing a pink shirt.

No, but Mr. True Religion had a BAPE canvas belt...

Both guys looked older than me. Early 40's I'd say.

[carbon888]

god damn whats happening to manila.. oh well not surprised

[camisaroja]

No, but Mr. True Religion had a BAPE canvas belt...

Both guys looked older than me. Early 40's I'd say.

WTF. DO they even make BAPE canvas belts?

LMAO

[Mike Cortez]

whats jeans inc? i doubt!
jeans inc third floor in gateway, sinasabi lang sakin.

[adelphi]

i dont know where abouts in the mall that is, but i'll find it. going tomorrow, will confirm :)

[supercrapper]

so is it true?

[klonoa]

San may cheap monday and sugar cane dito? Adora?

[camisaroja]

cheap monday in Adora and one of the stores in rockwell I forgot the name.


Sugar Cane wala.

[brianpex]

cheap monday in Adora and one of the stores in rockwell I forgot the name.


Madison...

[klonoa]

ooh thanks. how much do they go for here? btw, san yung madison sa rockwell? will check it out tomorrow. thanks!

[brianpex]

2nd floor near National

[camisaroja]

cheap mondays are under 5k if I remember correctly.

[carbon888]

theyre seling for girls only cm's go to singapore at queen's

[carbon888]

id say john11f is more knowledgable than edmond .... but i havent seen that dude post ina long time...

current rotation sammy 21oz
'qlos selvedge
sda 103
takumis


i doubt....10000 chars

[camisaroja]

I see eddies been backreading. lol

[klonoa]

woot thanks for the uniqlos, camisaroja!
now im off to adora and rockwell to cop up some cheap mondays!

[camisaroja]

you're welcome.

[brianpex]

I have another APC NS coming my way. If anyone wants a size 27 (waist 30") they can make an offer. Otherwise they become my backup pair.

[klonoa]

So does uniqlo and 7FAM denim fade as I wash em? Cause I really like the solid indigo color. Sorry, denim noob.

[supercrapper]

i doubt....10000 chars


lol .. eddiees all denimed up.

[klonoa]

wait, how exactly do i wash these? soak in cold water for 30 mins and thats it? im kinda confused. been reading denim threads at superfuture and i can barely understand a thing haha.

[banoi]

for your uniqlos, no need to wash them really, they are pre-washed I believe. just wear them as hard and as long as you can.

as for the fading question, of course they will fade through the course of time(washing/wearing), it really depends on how you wear them. and I don't get how 7FAM and Uniqlo can come up in the same sentence. Throw the 7FAM out and keep the qlos :)

[camisaroja]

Throw the 7FAM out and keep the qlos :)

well said. 7FAM only looks good on Serena Van Der Woodsen.

[klonoa]

sorry but whats wrong with 7fam?

[camisaroja]

^

They aren't that good and they are too expensive. a pair of 7s = atleast 3 pairs of uniqlos which would fade better and have more character.

[smellycat1000]

question lang po... what good brand of jeans you can buy in dubai? :)

[brianpex]

^ you can buy anything online and have it shipped to Dubai...

[iannedr]

should i cop those raw looking (raw as the sales lady said but i dont believe her) Ernest Sewn in Adora? P5.2K

[camisaroja]

no.


better get something else. like apc the price isnt that far off.

[brianpex]

better get something else. like apc the price isnt that far off.

What he said. I think Ernest Sewn is OK -- even their predistressed stuff looks good -- but if I had a choice I'd go for APC.

[klonoa]

Er, san naman may APC? :lol:

[carbon888]

jappys store

[klonoa]

wheres that?

[carbon888]

shangrila homme et femme

[Pandaemonaeon]

Woah, wait a freaking minute: may APC locally? If so, how much are the New Standards?

[camisaroja]

last time I checked arround 7k+ PHP.

[camisaroja]

Bump for the legit denim threak.

[brianpex]

this thread needs more raw denim pictures

[supercrapper]

this thread needs more raw denim talk tooo

[brianpex]

Not much to talk about unless someone gets a new pair, or a noob has questions.

[supercrapper]

a good denim that doesnt really have that much hype... Imperials.. ages very nicely.. when i get a break from work and real life ill get all my denim porn and post pics...

[carbon888]

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj129/carbon888888/_MG_0465-1.jpg





http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj129/carbon888888/_MG_0467-1.jpg




http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj129/carbon888888/_MG_0468-1.jpg



http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj129/carbon888888/_MG_0474-1.jpg




http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj129/carbon888888/_MG_0478-1.jpg





samurai s5000vx 21oz

[carbon888]

the thing started out on this

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0384.jpg

[carbon888]

can your pair do this?

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0520.jpg



http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0518.jpg



http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0519.jpg

[Sadik]

can someone post a pic of a 6mo black raw denim :D

[iannedr]

That's freaky!!!

[supercrapper]

the stiffy....

[camisaroja]

**** why do banoi and eddie have the same type of flooring. We used to have that too in our old house. Is it a chinese thing?


those jeans are effin stiff.

[brianpex]

I had wood parquet in my room back home too. There are only a few basic patterns so finding someone with the same pattern is inevitable.

It's not a Chinese thing so much as a feature of houses built in the late 70's/early 80's. We're not Chinese.

[camisaroja]

I see. Our old house was built in the 70s so I reckon you're right. Sorry architectural noob.

[carbon888]

thats stiffness was after a hot soak .. and after the 1st wash

try soaking it in ice cold water theyll be stiff like card board

[camisaroja]

Atleast 30 minutes? or more?

[carbon888]

25 mins at least minimum

[camisaroja]

cheers eddie!

[camisaroja]

bump

10chrs

[mike168]

kinda off topic but what does 10 char, 10chr really mean!?

[camisaroja]

10chr/10 chars/11212345/refyghjkl/ or any of it's variations are used to counter the "your post must contain atleast 10 characters..." pop up box.

[mike168]

oh ok thx, thought it was something else

[brianpex]

Not much reason for me to post of late. Still wearing my APCs. No washes or soaks yet, but I see some fading at the friction points and folds -- ankles, back of knees, thighs etc.

[iannedr]

can you take pix of them fades

[brianpex]

http://men.style.com/theupgrader/style/hotlist/denim?orderBy=EDITOR&page=1

[mike168]

interesting article brian, hmm wonder y there aint no jap brand

[klonoa]

is the GAP slim straight available here?

[brianpex]

interesting article brian, hmm wonder y there aint no jap brand

Multiple choice time:
a) Not readily accessible in the US, except from either Blue in Green or Self Edge.
b) They're mostly repro/retro fits, not modern fits like the rest on the list.
c) Jap brands are probably not Conde Nast advertisers. Conde Nast is the publisher behind GQ, Vogue, Details, etc. They also own style.com.

What do you guys think?

[brianpex]

Diesel has a one-day sale tomorrow to celebrate their 30 years in the biz. They have a special "Dirty Thirty" jean that will be on sale for 30Euros or 3030 Pesos.

http://www.diesel.com/dirtythirtystores/

I will try to be there early to check it out.

[klonoa]

wait, iisang type of jean lang ssale nila? or marami?

[brianpex]

afaik just that one model

[RushX]

Raw Denim noob here struggling to start in the Philippines.
I've got relatives in the US that I can contact but I really wouldn't want to bother them.

1.) Where are all the store locations of raw denim in or nearby the Metro Manila and Davao City(lol) area?
2.) How much would the well-known brands (high-end or low-end) being sold here cost?
3.) Anything else I should know about the raw denim scene here in the Philippines?

[brianpex]

1.) Where are all the store locations of raw denim in or nearby the Metro Manila and Davao City(lol) area?


NCR - has been discussed extensively already. Basically:
- Homme et Femme has APC in limited sizes, for around P7-8k. They also have Acne.
- Adora has Cheap Monday tight fit. They're on sale for P2k.
- Topman sometimes has raw but their quality control sucks. P3-4k
- Evisu can be had at Theodore's but I've not been there.

Davao - zilch

carbon888 aka Edmond can probably help if you want something from Japan or HK. I can probably help if you want something from the US.


2.) How much would the well-known brands (high-end or low-end) being sold here cost?


See above.


3.) Anything else I should know about the raw denim scene here in the Philippines?


- It's very small, possibly not much bigger than the group of people commenting on this thread.
- carbon888 aka Edmond has more raw Japanese denim jeans, leather and workwear than most anyone I've heard of

[iannedr]

wow thanks for upping this thread.

are only japanese fabric the best,supreme maker of raw selvedged fabric? Does US, Mexico, Turkey have them?

i have a close friend (who's family is into curtains business) went to China, India and Turkey and she claimed she have bought 10 yards of raw selvedge denim fabric (she claims is good find, pricey but not expensive but didn't tell me where she bought it)for me to make it into a jeans. Already looking for a good tailor.

will post pics soon as i got it.

[brianpex]

Raw just means it hasn't been washed. All fabrics are raw at some point. Selvedge is just the edge of the fabric. All fabrics have a selvedge. Denim made on old narrow looms is narrower so the edge gets incorporated into the cut. If jeans have a visible selvedge line it just means the fabric was made on narrow looms.

Hope this clears up some of the terms.

There are still a few mills in the US that still make denim on old looms.

[supercrapper]

japanese denim mills .. use the old (postwar i think) levi's, lee and wrangler looms which they bought and reconditioned to produce their denim .. which means that they produce the best and authentic quality of denim out there... if you see any old levis you'd notice the difference ...

india and other countries makes selvedge but i dont even think they use looms .. they mass produce them like the new levis out there

[banoi]

lemme plug.. i still have APCs and FlatHeads that I'm willing to let go for a cheaper price than what I posted before, so hit me up on PM to negotiate.

[RushX]

lemme plug.. i still have APCs and FlatHeads that I'm willing to let go for a cheaper price than what I posted before, so hit me up on PM to negotiate.
Sent.
NCR - has been discussed extensively already. Basically:
- Homme et Femme has APC in limited sizes, for around P7-8k. They also have Acne.
- Adora has Cheap Monday tight fit. They're on sale for P2k.
- Topman sometimes has raw but their quality control sucks. P3-4k
- Evisu can be had at Theodore's but I've not been there.

1.) I'm not totally familiar with the Manila area, what malls or where are they found if they're not in malls?
2.) What sizes of APC does Homme et Femme carry?
3.) At what price would you estimate Evisu's to be sold at?
4.) Oh yeah, if I'm going to the tailor what measurements should I get which would help me get the proper fit (before applying sizing up/down when buying specific brands) other than the obvious waist size?

My main concern right now is how to keep the pants I'm gonna buy stink-free. I know you keep put it in the freezer overnight to kill the stench but I live in a dorm where I can't have a ref (school dorm). I know I can use homemade febreeze to kill it off. Anything else I should know?

[supercrapper]

put it in front of a fan .... aerating it helps big time

[iannedr]

I've been at H et F last 3 weeks i think to check them APC, New Standards sizes are 29, 35,36 only. Requested for 30 but haven't called/texted yet.

[brianpex]

Sent.


1.) I'm not totally familiar with the Manila area, what malls or where are they found if they're not in malls?


- H&F is in Shang, and soon to open in GB5.
- Adora is in GB5
- Theodore's is in Boni High Street.
- Topman can be found in Rockwell, Trinoma, Megamall, maybe some other malls.


2.) What sizes of APC does Homme et Femme carry?
3.) At what price would you estimate Evisu's to be sold at?


I don't know. I'm not a big Evisu fan, and I get my APCs elsewhere.


4.) Oh yeah, if I'm going to the tailor what measurements should I get which would help me get the proper fit (before applying sizing up/down when buying specific brands) other than the obvious waist size?


Depends on what you're having tailored. I only have jeans hemmed (shortened) because messing with the waist and other parts is usually a bad idea.


My main concern right now is how to keep the pants I'm gonna buy stink-free. I know you keep put it in the freezer overnight to kill the stench but I live in a dorm where I can't have a ref (school dorm). I know I can use homemade febreeze to kill it off. Anything else I should know?

I've been wearing the same pair 5-6x a week for roughly 4 months and there's no detectible smell as far as I can tell. I just hang them up at night when I get home, otherwise no special treatment. If they ever start to smell I will just wash them.

[carbon888]

lats finds


balenciaga black raw denim with half selvedge and selvedge waist available at homme et femme around 21,XXX something

acne raw japanese denim available at homme et femme less than 10,000 i think

topman has new selvedge one wash around 3,xxx

polo ralph lauren has a hongkong made raw denim selvedge in vintage cut very nice imho around 12,xxx not sure

earnest sewn fullton at adora very nice theyre on sale around 7,xxx sale price .


stronghold slim washed ( a little bit ) at theodore's around 18,xxx over priced in my opion


evisu heritage line at theodore's price range vary .

any raw japanese denim let me know i can proxy you any pair you want as long as its in stock .

sugarcane, samurai, flathead , skull , eternal , evisu , pure blue japan , real japan blues, stronghold , pherrow's , warehouse , dubble works , buzz rickson , studi d artisan , dry bones , fob factory , 45 rpm , fullcount , omnigod , and lots lots more !!!!

[carbon888]

you can get china made selvedge sanforized denim i can sell you but its a per /roll basis 12oz to 14,75 oz 100 yards / roll not too nice imo...

around 400 to 700 pesos per yard depends one exchange rate landed cost everything paid for tax, freight , profit etc etc except delivery ( door to door )

[carbon888]

wow thanks for upping this thread.

are only japanese fabric the best,supreme maker of raw selvedged fabric? Does US, Mexico, Turkey have them?

i have a close friend (who's family is into curtains business) went to China, India and Turkey and she claimed she have bought 10 yards of raw selvedge denim fabric (she claims is good find, pricey but not expensive but didn't tell me where she bought it)for me to make it into a jeans. Already looking for a good tailor.

will post pics soon as i got it.


you can get selvedge denim anywhere BUT ! ... end of topic

[iannedr]

Ed what brand can 6-7K budget get me? semi-slim raw selvedged

[carbon888]

hmm.. how slim? fashion tight slim or just 66 type cut slim

[iannedr]

not the gay type slim, not really familiar with the terminology but something like this sans the hip flare:
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/JapjJeansFit.jpg
not too tight and with a little bit of room :)

[carbon888]

gotcha .............................

[brianpex]

lats finds

Great update, Ed.

polo ralph lauren has a hongkong made raw denim selvedge in vintage cut very nice imho around 12,xxx not sure


I forgot about Polo RL. Last I checked their jeans were selvedge but all I saw were washed. Nice cuts though.


earnest sewn fullton at adora very nice theyre on sale around 7,xxx sale price .


I forgot about ES at Adora. The Fulton is nice too, for a classic slim fit (vs. modern slim fit APC NS).

[brianpex]

Ed what brand can 6-7K budget get me? semi-slim raw selvedged

For that budget just go for APCs. Do they have your size at H&F?

[iannedr]

I really would have preferred the APC but no luck with the sizes, opting for 30-31. Im a 33 true size

[carbon888]

h&f has a private backdoor sale in shang some made in japan claw dior homme jeans and some made in italy ones very nice and cheap some acne's and cp company 's on sale too

[klonoa]

how cheap? do they have sizes?

[carbon888]

a couple mostly 30% off still sizes left

[klonoa]

oh. just got back from theodores and got evisus 70% off haha.

btw how much do evisus usually go for? the regular prices were 18500 - 25000 but on 60-75% off i think so the 18500 were down to 7 or 6500 i think and the 25 down to 10

[brianpex]

Spotted someone wearing Cheap Mondays today at Starbucks: a blonde blue-eyed foreigner lady, probably Swedish.

[camisaroja]

Enjoying the usual cup of overpriced joe? Or is she the type who goes for the juice?

[supercrapper]

she could be the type to go for my juice....

[iannedr]

ok guys. Already got them raw selvedge denim fabric.
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/IMG_0068.jpg
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/IMG_0069.jpg
they got wide selvedge.
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/IMG_0070.jpg
fabric is slubby, heavy. Its like cardboard stiff
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/IMG_0117.jpg
i bet this will be a fast fader. Indigo on my hands

So guys what do you think? Yay or Nay

[brianpex]

how much fabric did you get? You probably need around 1.5m for a pair of jeans.

[carbon888]

theyre not selvedge buddy sorry

[brianpex]

^ eh? they're raw and have the selvedge line. Of course we don't know anything about the type of loom used, cotton, weave or dying process. Could definitely be crappy denim but we can't tell from a photo.

Raw just means "hasn't been washed" and selvedge just means the edge is visible and used as an edge when the pattern is cut. All fabrics have selvedge.

[iannedr]

thing is 3-3.5 yards long, originally was 10 yards, 2 other friend shared so i think its enough to transform it into jeans for a 5'10 height.

width is about 1.5 yard i guess its not on a narrow loom but yet to see one.

I believe it has quality by the looks and feel of it and no doubt this is raw because it is hard as a cardboard. I don't know if its sanforized or not.

If this is not a kind of selvedge fabric then where would we categorize this?

Now the problem is, if it will stretch or shrink, give allowance or not. Already have a good tailor to make this work. I'm opting for a 501 1947 type fit and my gut feel is to size exactly.

If this doesnt work then dispose properly or i might give it to the homeless. My generous friend will not like it definitely

Will use a decent digicam soon

wish me luck

[brianpex]

Easy to tell if it's sanforized. Take a long piece of the cloth and soak/wash it. If it shrinks significantly, it's not sanforized.

The most common width for narrow looms was 28-29" according to Ande Whall.

[carbon888]

they are not selvedge

[supercrapper]

ed .. what makes you say that its not selvedge .... anything we should look for?

[camisaroja]

yeah eddie.

It looks selvedge..... Me thinks....

[carbon888]

its hard to explain i have a couple of roll of this material too.. firgot why its not a real redline/pink/green/ etc.. selvedge

[supercrapper]

oh ok ... its just a print then .. not the real thing .. i got it

[carbon888]

yeah that type

[parkingboy]

Maybe you guys can get the answer here.

Borrowed from somewhere:

"Selvage denim is made on old-style shuttle looms rather than modern, projectile looms. In simple terms, this means during the fabric weaving process, the cross-thread goes back and forth as one continuous thread, rather than as individual threads for each cross weave. As a result, selvage denim has a clean edge. Modern, single thread weaving has a frayed edge.

Traditionally the fabric made on shuttle looms was so narrow, a pair of jeans required approximately 3 yards of fabric. To maximize yield, jean-makers used the fabric all the way to the selvage edge with a straight outside seam. When the cuff is turned up, the two selvedge edges, where the denim is stitched together, can be seen (it's also seen on the inside of the coin pocket). The selvage edge is usually stitched with a colored thread and on vintage jeans, you'll find red, white, green, brown or yellow thread running down the edge, the most common being red. This distinction was made by fabric mills to differentiate between fabrics. True vintage jeans can be recognized the selvage edge.

Japanese selvage denim is the finest and most rare on the market today.

Historically, American denim was considered superior. In time, however, because shuttle looms only made 30-inch wide cloth, they became obsolete. In the 1950’s, when American jean manufacturers saw demand for their product skyrocket, they searched for faster, less expensive methods for producing denim fabric. They mothballed the traditional shuttle-type looms in favor of modern, projectile looms which could make a 60-inch wide fabric (or wider) for much less money. The fabric produced, however, was lighter and less durable. Manufacturers also replaced real indigo dye with synthetic substitutes and began pre-washing all fabric in order to control shrink and twist. The byproduct of these changes was an article lacking character with no potential for greatness."

[supercrapper]

iannedr check the selvedge part again, and check if the red line is a real thread or just a print ... but still not a a bad roll....

[camisaroja]

hey eddie greyone's new store is open right? Any news on what kind of denim they have there?

[brianpex]

I saw the Grayone Social guys on TV today. Congrats to them.

[brianpex]

Dropped by Adora to check out the Dior jeans but their smallest size in the raw 19cm was 30 which was a size or two too large for me. I was able to inspect it, though, and it's quite nice both in denim and construction.

[camisaroja]

I saw the Grayone Social guys on TV today. Congrats to them.

Yeah! I met one of those guys a few months ago. One of them is from SuFu too....

No news on the denim they have? Im too lazy to sms them....

[iannedr]

Guys already got pix of finished product! I say im happy with how it turned out. My tailor didn't fail me, nice workmanship overall.

crappy iPhone pre-washed pix:
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged3.jpg
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged4.jpg
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged6.jpg
this thing is stiff and seems you're wearing pants made of cardboard!
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged5.jpg
Hard to button but it'll soften thru time
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged2.jpg
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged1.jpg
Chain stitched. Red line is not printed, its valid thread

Planned to boiling hot soak it before the official everyday wear it. Hope it wont shrink that much. Gotta rest my Calvins for a long time

[mike168]

nice ian! 10char

[brianpex]

Did you copy the pattern off another pair of jeans?

[supercrapper]

brian..

Now the problem is, if it will stretch or shrink, give allowance or not. Already have a good tailor to make this work. I'm opting for a 501 1947 type fit and my gut feel is to size exactly.


ian.. be prepared for smurf legs .. and white sneaks will get blue stains ... i dont care how much soak you do ...

[camisaroja]

looks nice Ian.

[carbon888]

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0065-1.jpg


http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0061-1.jpg



http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0062-1.jpg

[iannedr]

Ed can we take a peek of your closet err i mean walk in closet :)

[brianpex]

All the gays are trying to get out of the closet, and here we have a straight guy trying to get in.

[carbon888]

what do you wanna see? i dont have that much let me know what you wanna see and ill post it

[iannedr]

Nice humor Brian this time of the night.

With all your stash of jeans, shirts, shoes and boots... what else?

[carbon888]

i have a couple of bonded up kawaii japanese school girls inside my closet too

[iannedr]

maria ozawa type?

[parkingboy]

@ carbon888: Nice Samurais there. I saw your pair of Strongholds and I was intrigued. Turns out their main store is less than 2 miles from where I live. I'll be paying them a visit soon. But $285 a pair off-the-rack? You got a good deal if you got it 60% off.

[carbon888]

talk to their manager bill tell him you know me.. get a pair of white's and a pair of stronghold jeans.. and yeah ask for a shot of bourbon too!

[supercrapper]

ed i remember when somebody posted pics from yr flickr .. with girls tied up .... youse a kinky man ..

ian he has a blog with all his stuff on it ....

[carbon888]

hahah yeah crap!


www.vintage-eddiee.blogspot.com

[parkingboy]

This is a pair of Gap low rise slim straight rinsed selvage jeans I managed to get before stocks ran out. I have something else coming in next week so I'll be posting when it arrives. Keeping my fingers crossed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/hfg.rm/DSC_7360.jpg

[carbon888]

www.vintage-edieee.blogspot.com

[camisaroja]

nice jeans you got there eddie.

as usual....

[parkingboy]

Arrived sooner than I expected. Academi Jeans.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/hfg.rm/DSC_7372.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/hfg.rm/DSC_7373.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/hfg.rm/DSC_7374.jpg

[supercrapper]

re the academi .... the second button from the top might pop out ... its a pretty normal flaw in the jeans

[parkingboy]

^^ I know I can't ask much for the price tag, but I'm thinking about returning it.

[supercrapper]

my brother got his button fixed by a tailor ... never had any problems since

whod u buy that from btw?

[parkingboy]

^^ online at revolve clothing. They're based in Cerritos. 30% off last wed and thurs :) $60 delivered. I also check things out at tobi.com from time to time. same deal like revolve wed and thurs except apc and others but ok for good society and cheap monday.

[supercrapper]

oh ok ... sorry but thats too much for academi ... theyre going for 20 bucks here in philly

[carbon888]

samurai s710 19 oz at 19 months

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0072.jpg


http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u170/edmond888/IMG_0075.jpg

[parkingboy]

oh ok ... sorry but thats too much for academi ... theyre going for 20 bucks here in philly

that was the lowest i could get online. anyway, is it an ok brand quality-wise?

[brianpex]

I'm selling my old jeans in this thread (http://www.pinoyexchange.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361851), including two pairs of Valencia St. LVC's.

[supercrapper]

that was the lowest i could get online. anyway, is it an ok brand quality-wise?

denim is ok .. but the hardware is crap .... so yes and no ...

[brianpex]

http://playmate.freeweb.hu/pictures/5604.jpg
Note selvedge line.

[klonoa]

How much are the Diors in H&F

[iannedr]

PHP13K if my memory serves me right

[klonoa]

MII or MIJ?
I didnt bother with Dior when I was there last monday and I'm regretting it. I wanna cop a pair of 19s or 21s

[brianpex]

I wanted to buy a pair last month but the smallest they had (size 29 or 30 in the 19cm hem) is still too large for me. Apparently you have to size down on these like APCs...

[brianpex]

MII or MIJ?
I didnt bother with Dior when I was there last monday and I'm regretting it. I wanna cop a pair of 19s or 21s

The ones in Adora are MII.

[carbon888]

selvedge ones are macau

they have mij at homme last season and some distresses one in adora

[brianpex]

selvedge ones are macau


Hmm. APCs are made in Macau too. Since the Dior 17/19/21 are practically the same cuts as the APC NC/NS/Rescue, I'll probably stick with APC for my "dressy" jeans.

[klonoa]

OK I checked out Homme and they told me all their Diors are in Adora
Sucks.

[brianpex]

This is the Marc Jacobs shot that made me want Diors in the first place.

http://stylemens.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/04/14/marc_jacobs_page_1_image_0001.jpg

[brianpex]

Hmm. APCs are made in Macau too. Since the Dior 17/19/21 are practically the same cuts as the APC NC/NS/Rescue, I'll probably stick with APC for my "dressy" jeans.

Correction:
19cm -> APC NC
21cm -> APC NS

[klonoa]

where can i get some raw denim in hk aside from take 5? or is take 5 the place to go for raw denim?
also do they carry dior hommes?

[banoi]

Viktor now in Singapore

http://www.plussixfive.com/2008/12/08/viktor-jeans-the-black-market/

[brianpex]

http://www.plussixfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/viktor_1.jpg

eh? that's a terrible fit.

[banoi]

yeah. raw denim related news though hah.

[camisaroja]

http://www.plussixfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/viktor_1.jpg

eh? that's a terrible fit.

looks kinda diapery. Don't you think?

[brianpex]

Who was it that said Ino knew what looked good? That Viktor jeans was better than Defakto? :rotflmao:

[camisaroja]

Beats me. I've seen and touched both jeans from defacto and viktor. The touch test alone screams out the difference between the two. The thing with defacto is, I find the back pocket design to loud....

But

Defacto > Victor

[brianpex]

Ah it was adelphi.
Viktor > Defacto.

More choices and Ino knows what'll look good on you. Tats not so much.

one of the biggest turnoffs for me is defacto's print on their back pockets. its the one thing you cant change and also the one thing that i really hate.

and to echo myself, viktor has more choices, better finish and better material. i got a pair of defacto and a pair of viktors at the same time. malapit na masira *** defacto.

[camisaroja]

Well if diaper butt jeans look good to you, then to each his own I guess....

[brianpex]

50% off everything except APC and Sugarcanes at Farinelli's (http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=92849)

$8 shipping for US domestic, $30 for international.

[klonoa]

anyone know where else i can cop cheap mondays autobahn straight? all i see here are the tights

[brianpex]

I've only seen the tights too.

Post fit pics of your new flatheads?

[klonoa]

will do as soon as i get it back.
had it hemmed. it was a 36!

[carbon888]

you did not have t5 hemmed and chianstitched those?

[Pandaemonaeon]

haha I had my Flatheads hemmed too a few days ago after weeks of careful consideration. I like stacking but it just looks ridiculous when brand new kasi; naka-centralize sa ilalim yung kumpol-kumpol, ang pangit tignan :glee:

[klonoa]

wtf i didnt even know take 5 hems
damn :glee:

oh well at least im now a take 5 member

[carbon888]

your a t5 member now so you have a members card? so you bought something worth 3000 hk from them eh? haha

[iFly]

Guys already got pix of finished product! I say im happy with how it turned out. My tailor didn't fail me, nice workmanship overall.

crappy iPhone pre-washed pix:
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged3.jpg
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged4.jpg
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t360/iannedr/selvedged6.jpg
this thing is stiff and seems you're wearing pants made of cardboard!


Planned to boiling hot soak it before the official everyday wear it. Hope it wont shrink that much. Gotta rest my Calvins for a long time

nice, as long as the cut is not too loose or too tight. I like the color.
samurai jeans are also appealing and it last long, good investment.

[camisaroja]

My A.P.Cs are taking forever to arrive. :(

[brianpex]

^ you didn't go with Johnny Air?

[carbon888]

wait wait whta fh's are those? what model? dont boil soak please dont just use 40 degrees water soak for 1 hour

[klonoa]

mine? 1001

[iannedr]

why Ed, what will happen to those FH?

[carbon888]

dont boil soak use hottest on tap to soak 1 hour is good enough make sure you hang dry and the mroe wind the better

and inside out please before soaking

try to put mink oil on the patch first

too hot you will destroy the patch

and you will cook the denim with a boiling soak dont do it

[klonoa]

your a t5 member now so you have a members card? so you bought something worth 3000 hk from them eh? haha

haha yeah i bought a pair of pure blue japs last month

[iannedr]

dont boil soak use hottest on tap to soak 1 hour is good enough make sure you hang dry and the mroe wind the better
and inside out please before soaking
and you will cook the denim with a boiling soak dont do it

thats what i did on my custom jeans. Actually nothing bad happened.

[carbon888]

post picture pls?

hey klonoa why dont you post pcitures of those jeans? post soak and fit and all

[klonoa]

the pure blue japans was a gift for my cousin. ill post fit pics of the fh when i get it later

[de_veelish]

thats what i did on my custom jeans. Actually nothing bad happened.

Do you own a 501 shrink to fit jeans? If so, what's the difference between the two besides the custom fit?

[camisaroja]

^ you didn't go with Johnny Air?

No. Since I bought it from an individual I requested he just ship it to me directly.

[camisaroja]

Got my A.P.C NS (tag size 26) today and me thinks Im royaly fcuked.

I mean I can wear them but I can only button the bottom botton.

I never thought Id say this but my **** is getting in the way.

Should I soak it in hot water and throw them in the dryer for like an hour?

Or just re-sell them?



Discuss.

[mike168]

u bought the wrong size?

[camisaroja]

Not realy since I know the jeans will strech out eventually. I don't want another pair o slouchy looking jeans.

[mike168]

wait ur ns is tag size 26? thats too small huh?

[klonoa]

cami, sleep on them and do crazy stunts with them thats what i did with mine and they stretched pretty well APC denim stretches like crazy
down sized 2 or 3?

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/5333/55206162dg4.gif

[camisaroja]

mike,

yes I lost some weight and tag size 26 is really a 28.



kolna,

since 26 is a size 28 I think it's safe to say I sized down 3.



This might sound crazy but after washing/soaking them, I plan to let somebody wear it for me for like a week so it streches..... Then wen it's "broken in" Id wear it again....

[mike168]

wow i thought u were a 30 something lol.

[camisaroja]

wow i thought u were a 30 something lol.

I was. A pregnancy scare can work wonders. (0)

[supercrapper]

red,

wear it with the bottom button at first, do some squats ... yll be able to button up the next one .. repeat until yr able to button em up all the way....or until yr able to button up to the next to the last one.. thats what i did with mine ... thats why i dont really deal with the size down rule

and wtf are you thinking not using protection??? i should smack you upside the head

[camisaroja]

Will do broham. But im fear I might rip it while doing so....



I thought I was like UGK and Andre3000 because I always say "slipping is something I won't do, tip it for life." but, I ran out of Okamotos.... and the pussay was there, we be hungry.

Besides, I didn't blow me load inside but being in the medical field, I had too much info on me head so I was like over thinking and sh!t, b!tch says she's delayed like a week or two. I panic like ze Germans are coming. :(

[brianpex]

Red,
I wear a 27 in APC NS. I could give the 26 a try and take them off your hands if they fit me.

[camisaroja]

I would defo consider that.

I tried wearing them today with my tightest tidy whities today, I was able to button the bottom button.

I have read that they expand like crazy so Im keeping my hopes up.

[klonoa]

yeah just do squats and some stunt kicks haha
and sleep on them!

[brianpex]

I tried wearing them today with my tightest tidy whities today, I was able to button the bottom button.

I have read that they expand like crazy so Im keeping my hopes up.

Hmm. Only the bottom button eh? I can't see how they would fit you even taking into account the stretching.

My 27s fit pretty much perfect. klonoa's looks skinnier than me. Maybe they would fit him?

[klonoa]

haha i doubt brian
the 27s i got off of you were very tight at first. i could only button 2 buttons the first night. i did squats and slept on them for a week haha.

[camisaroja]

I wore the A.P.Cs last night and it was so godamn painful. My c0ck and inguinal hurt and I think the jeans did not strech. Still no progress. Im puting them up for sale. I'll be making a treak in a day or two.